Ubud Dreaming

The narrow roads began to wind and wrap the village as we approached the little town in the foothills of Bali. There is no mistaking that the presence of Balinese soul is more evident here in Ubud. It is full to the brim with art and artisans of all sorts, it is no wonder that Ubud is referred to as the heart of art and the island’s cultural centre.

I had spent the morning journeying from Kuta to the tiny settlement in Batubulan, where I met some painters.

According to the painter, it took him some three months to do this.

Throughout the journey, I marveled at the detailed and wonderful architecture made out form carved stone at each wall and building structure. The details were absolutely breathtaking and startling at the same time with enraged faces of mystical creatures and local gods. Most of the structures were grey and faded and covered with a layer of thick, overgrown moss, radiating a sacred but very eerie energy.

In Mas, I met Pak Madi and his family of woodcarvers. He is the third generation of woodcarvers in his family and has since handed over the family business to his son. I bought a gorgeous monkey statue for Charles’ garden.



Here is Pak Madi with a statue of Ganesan craved from Sandalwood

One thing I have come to realised is whether I am in Beijing or Hanoi; or Gold Coast or Cape Town, nothing expresses the vibrant character of the village, city or town better than its local market places. In all of these places the bazaars would come alive in a kaleidoscope of colours and trumpeting calls from stall vendors to “Come, look!”

Most of the time, the stalls sell nothing more exotic than cheap albeit charming little trinkets and odd ornaments.

Kadek, a little doe-eyed local girl, no more than 8 years old, gestured me from afar, waving a patch-blanket. (My great grandmother used to sew us these, made to order, according to height and size.)

Kadek started unfolding several other pieces with different designs and invited me to “see, touch!” Her father was willing to sell me one for 350rp. I offered 100rp. “Sis, I tell you,” she negotiated as she stuffed the blanket into my hands, “how about we give you for 100rp, and you give me another 50rp for good luck?”

I bought it. For good luck.

It was my pleasure to meet this smart little Balinese girl, Kadek.

The entire setting of Ubud tunes the state of mind for a true Balinese experience, in spite of the invasion of tourism and all its bane. Ubud has somehow managed a harmonious mish mash of old and new, traditional and trendy, classic and contemporary. I guess that is what art is all about.

By and large, Ubud is a really special place, but I think what makes it most special, apart from all the remarkable art, glorious food and friendly people, is the sanctuary of everyday life that is simple and un-daunting, even for the occasional visitor.